Wednesday, May 13, 2015

From Miles Of Bones To Masterpieces......Paris Day Two

Under the city of Paris lies some 200 miles of tunnels lined with the skulls and bones of over 8 million people.  Back in 1786 after complaints that cemeteries had become overcrowded, bones were moved five stories underground into what used to be Paris' old quarries.  Today a few miles of these are open to the public for a once in a lifetime, eerie encounter with the dead.


In The Line For The Catacombs
 


Since no tickets are sold in advance the only way one gets to visit this large graveyard is to get up early and stand in line.  But still this offers no guarantees as only 200 visitors are allowed to enter at any one time. Although my wonderful husband Clyde is good with maps and directions, he found no exact directions but said we'd just head in the general area. So off we went getting off at what he thought was the closest Metro stop to the boneyard.  Seeing no signs I suggested we pop into a nearby ritzy hotel and ask directions.  Surely they'd have tourist information and be able to help us out. I went in first asking the well dressed desk clerk, "do you speak English?"  His response was, "Eye wool trae." Confused I asked again, "do you speak English."  His second response made me realize that he WAS speaking English.....or at least trying.  He ended up being very helpful giving us a map on which he wrote detailed information to the catacombs. We followed his route but still found no evidence that we were any closer......until we turned and noticed a loooooooong line that wrapped around a small door opening.   Clyde said, "that must be the place," as we crossed the street and found our way to the end. 

We're In.....Well One Of Us Is While Clyde's Still Taking Photos
 



Surprisingly the line went quickly as we chatted to a Canadian couple standing in front of us on line. Before long we found ourselves in front of the entrance ready to purchase tickets to this underground world.  Outside the temperatures were a cool 58 degrees and I was bundled up with layers of shirts and a jacket. I knew our bones would get even more chilled as we descended into the dark, abbess of the dead.

Narrow Hallways With Low Headroom




Soon after we entered into the dark tunnels we began to descend 130 steps into the unknown.  At first there is nothing but dimly lit, narrow tunnels with low headroom that create the initial setting.  Eventually we find ourselves literally surrounded by piles and piles of skulls and bones lining each and every hallway, nook and cranny.  All we could say was, "wow," as we suddenly realized just how insignificant each and every one of us is in this vast universe.  Just like these bones that once were covered with flesh we too someday will end up as a pile of rubble while our souls go away and live on forever.
 Bones And Skulls
 
 Heads Will Roll



Back to reality we followed the tunnels through a maze of inscriptions, altars and other things along the bone chilling pathways. As we made out way to the final resting places we realized that since we came down, we'd have to go back up.  While there are supposedly only 80 stairs back out of the catacombs it seemed like more on the steep, narrow, dizzying, spiral staircase that seemed like it would never end. 

Miles And Miles Of Bones Piled High



Clyde Also Had A Black Jacket On That Had White Spots On It From
Brushing Up Against The Bones......Ewwwwww!



Back outside among the living I needed to find a pharmacy to buy some lip balm since the dry air was reaking havoc on my lips.  Clyde agreed and we quickly found a small pharmacy in which we stopped.  The girl behind the counter showed me a section of lip products with the cheapest being around 8 euros since it contained a high dose of sunscreen.  I passed on the high priced products since we had several back at the apartment anyway.  But later we stopped into a nearby Monoprix where we found one for only 2 euros.

Next we headed over to the famous Louvre Museum,  a must-see in the city of lights. We were amazed upon entering the world famous museum to discover absolutely no lines.  We quickly purchased entrance tickets and decided to inquire about a tour.  A 90-minute tour of the masterpieces was only 12 euros each and was starting within minutes.  Our small group of maybe 10 people were each given a headset along with a radio transmitter.  This made it easy for the guild to talk into her microphone without yelling and each of us could spread out more yet still hear what she was saying.

Outside The Louvre Museum, Paris
Entrance Is Through That Pyramid

 Equipped With Radio and Headset To Listen To Our Guide
 
 


The Winged Victory of Samothrace



Consecration Of The Emperor Napoleon I And Coronation Of The Empress Josephine In Notre Dame Cathedral, Paris On December 2, 1804 by Jacques-Louis David
 
La Grande Odalisque by Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres
A Sensual Painting We Stopped At Since There Were No Kids In Our Group
 


 
Venus de Milo
 
Our Guide Explaining Something


I See Naked People

I Call This "Men Looking At Their Pee Pee's"
 


  


Our female guide Tamarita was from Italy and seemed passionate about art history.  She explained to the group why a masterpiece is called that and led us through a small selection among the 30,000 that the Louvre contains.

As An Art Historian She Was Very Passionate About The Masterpieces

 


After our morning out we headed back to our apartment to rest up a bit and have some lunch.  We shared a baguette, some ham rolls with cream cheese, another assortment of cheeses and some wine for less than 7 euros.  Also on our way to the apartment we picked up our very first macarons, a local pastry that Paris is well known for.  These little meringue cookies are filled with cream and come in many flavors. Resembling tiny burgers on rolls, they were lightly sweetened and a delightful end to a nice meal.  Even McDonalds in Paris includes macarons with their combo meals.

French Pastry Shop Near Our Apartment in Paris
 

A Strawberry Napolean & Three Macarons (chocolate, pistachio and strawberry)


Since our apartment was within walking distance to the cathedral of Notre Dame we headed over there after our brief rest.  Our first impression was of course "WOW," as we stared at the massive structure.  We managed to catch the end of a mass already in progress and made our way inside with no lines.  Was I ever shocked when I couldn't even see the priest that I was hearing.  Eventually I noticed the small figure dressed in white at the front of this gorgeous church. After our visit we walked around the area taking note at the many local shops, bakeries, pubs and rental bikes.  We had to pick up a baguette sandwich to share since this seems to be the Parisian way. 

The Cathedral Of Notre Dame, Paris
Named For "Our Lady"


 
 






The plaza surrounding the cathedral was a happening place with hoards of tourists.  A piano sat in the middle of one street with a man playing.  Another section had young guys on skateboards entertaining the crowds. Everywhere we looked there was something going on and plenty of people standing nearby to watch.

I Think I'll Park My Piano Here......In The Middle Of The Road
 
 
A Wedding? In Front Of Notre Dame
 
 

Having lived abroad for nearly four years now being surrounded by people NOT speaking English didn't seem so strange anymore.  Be it Spanish, French, Turkish, Greek, German or some other language we discovered that a smile goes along way.  Unlike us silly Americans though most people we encountered in Europe did speak some English, and many spoke it quite fluently. In our months of research prior to this trip Clyde read that Spanish is widely spoken and when someone didn't speak English, he spoke Spanish.

Despite what we'd read and heard about Paris being a haven for pickpockets we kept vigilant and saw no signs of any such thing.  Much of the trouble happens in and around the Metro by teenagers since they can't be procecuted.  Groups of teenagers will surround naïve tourists that are stuffed into crowded subways, snatching purses or luggage as the door closes. Before the tourist realizes it the thief is gone with their belongings. 



Entertainment On The Train


Throughout out whole month long trip we both wore money belts under our pants.  These contained any cash, credit cards, passports and copies of our passports too. While these were safely tucked away our pockets contained nothing of any value.  Mine usually held lip balm, tissues and hand sanitizer, all the things necessary for getting around town. Clyde carried a small camera attached to his wrist, small bottles of water and whatever else it is that men carry in those pockets of theirs.

Our Paris apartment was located at 3 Rue Beautrellis and we soon found out that 17 Rue Beautrellis is where Jim Morrison of The Doors was said to have died back in 1971.  Not all research says that he died in his apartment but it was known that he lived there. We walked by number 17 on our way to and from our apartment and took note the once famous dwelling.

Travel can be tiring as we walked miles on cobblestone streets, climbed hills, and tackled hundreds of stairs each time we used the subway system. Our tired legs took us back to our apartment once again as day two in Paris came to an end. We slept well as our heads hit the pillow, resting up for another day of fun in Paris......along the gringo trail.


http://www.smithsonianmag.com/travel/paris-catacombs-180950160/?no-ist

Tuesday, May 12, 2015

Pinch Me......I'm In Paris!

As the subway door closed I looked down at my arm stuck between the doors, still clinging onto my red suitcase on the other side.  Instantly, five or six people pushed on the doors forcing them to reopen, just as a tiny French women grabbed my luggage and pulled it to the inside of the train.  It happened so fast like a blur in time that doesn't seem real, yet it remains my very first memory of Paris and the warmth that the Parisians showed us.  During the months leading up to this trip we heard many comments like, "Paris is beautiful but the French people are unfriendly."  "No one will try to help you since they don't like foreigners." Yet nothing seemed further from the truth as we continually met Parisians who went out of their way to help these two lost gringos visiting Paris for the first time.

The Paris Metro



Since we thought it would be fun to live like a local we passed on the high-priced hotels and opted for an apartment in a historic part of the city called Le Marais. Composed of both the 3rd and 4th arrondissements (or districts) Le Maris is an older, historic part of the city close to many of the popular tourist attractions. Located on the right bank of the famous River Seine, our lovely apartment was decorated with Parisian flair which included all the comforts of home.  The compact kitchen had everything we needed for a quick meal but was stocked with all the necessities to cook a full dinner, if we ever the energy to do so.

Our Apartment in Paris.....Small Kitchen With Bar

Better View Of Kitchen.....Water Closet To Right......
Full Bathroom is Off Of Bedroom
 


The owner Jean-Jacques explained that although the apartment had been totally refurbished the building itself was over 105 years old. As soon as he left us alone we each headed into the shower to freshen up after our 12 hours of flying time with a plane change in New Jersey. Having been awake for 24-hours with no measurable sleep on the plane, we were both running on adrenaline excited to explore this beautiful city.

Living Room
 
 
We left the flat and made our way over to Les Delices, a tiny store that sells candy and yogurt. Our mission was not for sweets this time but instead to retrieve our Paris Passes that were lost in the mail, since the store also serves as the office.  The young lady behind the counter asked Clyde for an ID and when he presented her with his Panama drivers license she began speaking to him in fluent Spanish.  A bit surprised Clyde asked her, "do you speak English?"  She looked at him confused as she began explaining how to use the pass in English and we explained that although we live in Panama we're not Panamanians but transplants.


We found the nearest Metro station and soon found ourselves standing in front of the Arc de Triomphe.  This well-known monument stands in the middle of Place Charles de Gaulle at the west end of the Champs Elysses (the famous shopping area for the rich and famous).  Next we headed over to the most famous sight of the city, The Eiffel Tower to see how long the lines might be.  I had thought it might be fun to take the stairs up to the second level and then the lift up to the top.  But we both gazed in awe at the massive tower that reached high into the clouds and both said out loud, "oh hell no......we're not climbing up there." Since there were no lines we quickly bought tickets to the top and made our way through a few other tourists also taking the journey up.    The breathtaking views from the top brought smiles to our faces and we just had to stop for a few romantic photos at the designated "kissing spots" along the way. Perhaps we both shed a few tears as we realized that here we stood, atop the Eiffel Tower in Paris.....one of the most romantic cities in the world!

Arc de Triomph

Another View
 
Nearby Gardner Is Taking This Photo

It's Big!


View From The Top


 
The Sign Says We Have To Kiss....

 
Awwwww......How Romantic!
 


As our tummies began to growl begging for some Parisian food I spotted one of the many "Creperie's" where we could pick up lunch. I inquired if the vendor spoke English which he did, and asked what he had to offer. His suggestion was a crepe filled with chicken and vegetables at the price of 5.50 euros (about the same in dollars these days).  Clyde pulled out his wallet and suggested that I go sit inside, asking IF the prices were the same.  The man behind the counter said, "no," and pointed to a sign for the seated dining options.  So instead we asked for "take away" and ordered one crepe to share.  We watched as the crepe was made right in front of us.  The finished product was huge and plenty for both of us to eat.  Since in Europe the patron pays for the right to use the table take away proved to be cheaper.  Our first crepe of Paris was rather tasty and we stood and ate it in front of the restaurant enjoying it with a coke.

Cook Making Our Sandwich Crepe
 
Me And My First Crepe in Paris.....There Will Be More!
 

Later that day around dusk we decided to take a cruise along the Seine River. With temperatures in the 60's as the sun went down it felt even cooler with the breezes coming off of the water. Dinner that night was at a local pub.  Clyde had salmon with mashed potatoes and I had a veggie lasagna with drinks for a total of around 30 euros, a splurge by our standards.

View From The Seine




 
Veggie Lasagna

 Salmon & Green Mashed Potatoes


Before heading back to the apartment we stopped for a few groceries at a local store called Monoprix.  A department store with groceries, Monoprix is a smaller version of a high end retail store in the states. We picked up a two-pack of brand name Greek yogurt for only 1 euro, along with some coffee for breakfast.  When in France eating bread and wine is a necessity so we found some fresh baked bread, cheese and cheap wines for a snack. We soon found out that only certain registers at this store are allowed to check out cheese, for reasons unknown to us.  And that in Europe stores charge customers for plastic bags really encouraging patrons to bring their own reusable ones. The cashier asked if we wanted a bag and charged us an extra three cents for each one.


Lots Of Pretty Produce Everywhere.....Truly The Mediterranean Diet!
 


Tired from a long day of travel we headed back to our home away from home ready to call it a night. As we made our way up three flights of stairs carrying groceries we realized just how different things are in Europe.  People walk everywhere, oftentimes eating a baguette sandwich along the way.  Although the Paris Metro is wonderful and very efficient going up and down hundreds of stairs for each trip is tiring for us not used to public transportation. Here's to our wonderful first day in Paris and now time to rest up for more adventures tomorrow as these two crazy gringo's explore Europe.......along the gringo trail.





http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Le_Marais
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arc_de_Triomphe

Sunday, April 12, 2015

Sharing The Dream Of International Living.......

Once again this year I was asked by International Living to speak at their Fast Track To Panama Conference.  If you don't already know International Living is a large publication that shows people how to make their dream of moving abroad a reality.  This is done through seminars, a magazine, website, books and other material offered up to the public.  With over 400 attendees from the US and Canada we shared our story with many who stopped by our table in between listening to others' speak. International Living videos the whole event which is then given to attendees to have for future reference also.
 
Sharing Our Story With Over 400 Attendees
 


The Exhibit Hall was full of others offering up all kinds of services from real estate, insurance brokers, lawyers, doctors and even members of an indigenous Indian tribe selling handicrafts. The crowd was overloaded with great information from speakers with power point presentations which covered all aspects of life in Panama. Attendees really seemed to appreciate the honesty of the expats like myself that are here living the dream. All of us that spoke mentioned the not so perfect parts of life here like water and power problems; spotty trash pickup; the laid-back work ethic of service workers and so much more.  Life isn't perfect anywhere and everyone needs to realize that before jumping in and making the move. But each and every expat speaker also conveyed the message that despite the quirks of Panama we have no regrets and don't plan on moving anytime soon.

 Notice The Power Point Presentation To The Left


Throughout the conference there was a never ending supply of water, coffee and snacks before ending the day with adult beverages and more socializing. A VIP party on Friday night was held at the elegant Waldorf Astoria Hotel.  Alcohol was flowing freely as was an assortment of finger foods while the Rollers Rock & Roll band entertained us. Clyde and I danced the night away with many new friends that we made throughout the event.

Gettin' Tipsy With Friend Jo Anne Burrill....
Who Already Lives In Coronado, Panama
 
Posing With New Friends At IL Cocktail Party
 


Also at the same time Panama City was in the national news regarding the famous Summit Of The Americas.  Leaders from all over the world converged here to discuss worldly matters causing the need for maximum security throughout the city. Major highways, streets and bridges were blocked off during the Summit with a stronger than usual police presence everywhere.  Cavalcades of limo's whizzed by the hotel surrounded by sirens screaming from police cars that encircled the entourage.  Normal traffic was no where to be seen as the city resembled a ghost town.

Some unknown dignitaries also stayed at our hotel as we noticed the occasional pack of secret service agents walking by donned in dark suits.  Certain elevators were off limits to us as they were for held for world leaders who were privately whisked away from lurking crowds.

We made our way home late last night after sipping cocktails at a poolside party before leaving the hotel. A huge thanks to the staff of International Living for hosting such a fun, informative event and allowing me once again to be a part of it.  Never did I dream that someday I'd be speaking in front of crowds of people, perched on the edge of their seat wanting to hear what I had to say. It's been a honor to share our story as both a writer and speaker for International Living throughout the past four years. And to think it all started here through this blog and the great following that it's developed.  I've really come to believe the saying that there really are no strangers out there, just friends that haven't yet met. Here's to more international adventures of living the dream in Panama......along the gringo trail.

Wednesday, March 18, 2015

One Of The Seven Wonders.........

No matter how many times we see the Panama Canal we're still captivated by this modern marvel of engineering.  Just imagine coming up with the idea of cutting through the entire country of Panama, building an artificial lake, and creating a set of locks to move a ship from one ocean to another.  The American Society of Civil Engineers named the Panama Canal one of the seven wonders of the modern world making it a "must see" for everyone that visits the isthmus of Panama.

We recently had the opportunity again to show some new friends around Panama City, with our first stop being the canal. Making our way there by 9am on a Monday morning, the crowds were minimal and we had great views of three ships making the transit. If you recall it was last year sometime that Clyde and I had the opportunity to transit the canal ourselves on a 42-foot catamaran with two Australian couples that found us through this blog. See link below for full story of our adventure on the high seas!

The following are photos we took recently on our latest journey to the canal and other parts of the megalopolis known as Panama City, Panama. Come along with us through photos that tell the whole story.....along the gringo trail.

Warren and Colleen Visiting From Canada

A Ship Entering A Lock
 
Two Ships Going Into Parallel Locks



A Close-Up Of A Mule (train used to guide ships through locks) And Lock Gate
 


 
A Critter Spotted On The Hilltop
Perhaps.....A Capybara?

View From Ancon Hill

Another View of Panama City
 

Casco Viejo - The Old Part Of The City And Renovations

Casco Viejo In Panama City, Panama
 
 

A Young Man Helped Us Park On The Curb Like This

An Old Church


 View From Altos de Campana Overlook




http://alongthegringotrail.blogspot.com/2014/04/an-adventure-on-high-seascrossing.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panama_Canal

Life In Portugal....At A Snails Pace....

Yesterday was just another day in Portugal when my dear husband Clyde said he was going to run to the pharmacy for a few things. Time passed...